This is the setup for a 1996 Ford Ranger. This video shows the electrical setup as well as the vacuum. If you have any questions or comments let me know.
Ill be making some more videos soon, please let me know what you think.
This is the setup for a 1996 Ford Ranger. This video shows the electrical setup as well as the vacuum. If you have any questions or comments let me know.
Ill be making some more videos soon, please let me know what you think.
PLEASE Do NOT start messing with these systems on your newer cars until you better understand how the car/engine control systems work. You will shorten the life of the motor and you WILL void your warranty. I am considering using a similar system on my truck with caution and I DO encourage anyone with a pretty good understanding of how the car and generator work and interact to try experimentation on older cars that wont break your heart if they dont survive a couple months of testing.
FAKE!!!
The material to use is stainless steel type 316, I know that using copper will produce a tarnish buildup in the water, also I have heard that aluminum will produce chlorine molecules which is not good.
You can add more baking soda to create more gas. It will raise your amperege aswell.
You dont need a flash resistor but it is a good idea.
You can find it on the internet or on ebay i am sure. Other than that I don’t know.
I’m starting to experiment with this stuff and I just have a few basic questions.
1) What is the best metal material to use? Is stainless steel a good choice? I’ve used cooper and aluminum to start, but they don’t seem to be the best choice.
2) Did you add any baking powder to enhance the gas production of the cell.
3) Do you still need a flash resistor when you supply the gas into the air intake to prevent flash back or is that only needed when you supple the gas into the fuel injector.
EFIE, where do i get one???
Ummm yes, hydrogen is very flammable.
ok so the hydrogen, is it like flamable or what? how does it help?
A vacuum source that flows into your intake manifold. The pcv valve or another input tube that is close to the manifold that you can cut into. The generator is a mason jar that is about 6 inches tall by 3 inches wide.
can you explain vaccum source? what size is your gennerator?
The setup would be the same. Just find a sufficient vacuum source.
How would you make this setup work for a 97′ chevy silverado. 5.7 liter V8???
I’ve installed one on an’86 Nissan. Nissan used something called a carbon cannister. A hose runs from the carbon cannister to the top of the intake manifold and that’s where I introduce the HHO.
I do have a few new designs, and I am currently working on some other theories with this. Sorry, I haven’t been able to post them on here yet. But lets see, I have gotten about a 61% improvement on mileage in one of my friends cars, and after an hour of non stop running the temp got to only 126. That is an ok temp to be at, just as long as the water doesn’t boil, I assume. I would try putting less baking soda in, try approximately, 1/4 teaspoon for every liter. I think that is a good ratio.
I would say that the plate design works better, mainly because of the greater amount of surface area that will act as the electrode. But Stainless steel plates are very expensive, and not worth the price. The spiral design does work well. So I would continue on with that.
I do like the “smacks” (pvc pipe type/plates) design for better fitting into a vehicle, perhaps, but I think there are many more options available when one starts working with these, and getting there own ideas invested.
Good to see your work.
Anything new yet? Hows the heat on your bottles? (mine reached 130o F in about 20minutes.. heh, i think i put to much Baking Soda in it this time, neways, thanks for sharing.
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hey, would you say (if you know) if a “plate” design, say with 7 plates, is a “better” generator? Sounds obvious maybe, as most the ‘buzz’ is about smacks/plates, but I am seeing a lot of interest, at least for the first time setups using the “spiral” design, as I have, mainly because of the better documentation/parts availablility(fundability) for the first time.. but I am considerig just “enhancing” on the “spiral” design myself.. thoughts?
Thanks for the feedback always!
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15.5 approximately, and baking soda.
how many amps are sucked off the system? what do you use as electrolyte?
I found that there was not much suction coming from the port I made in the intake hose. So I thought that the results from that would be negligible.
Eventually, I plan on running a PWM and some gauges to the dash, monitoring Heat, AMPs, and Water level, easy stuff, Safety First *always.
I want to test this one to the max before adding stuff though.. 🙂
I am also considering using the PVC Pipe Design, but I am 50/50 on that, cause I ‘hear’ a lot of good points about using the mason/canning jars as the are so heat resistant. Will see in the next design.
Adding a Flash Arrestor, *maybe* a PVC Enhancer will see how it helps first.
Cheers!
ok cool, someone with a ford ranger using the same method as I am, (2cell/jars) version.
Although I have a *couple* differnces in my design, nothing much though, I have a question.
why aren’t you (or maybe i didnt see one) running TWO HHO OUT’s, one hose to the intake and one to the engines vacumm hose? The reason is the engines runs at different RPM’s when you are “driving” versus “idleing/sitting”, I have mine set up that way, just because it made sense. 🙂
BTW- I Have a 1992 Ranger 🙂
I don’t believe that is correct. You do not need to drill into the intake for anything. You may choose to but you do not have to. The mpg decrease may come with some cars, but it will not do any damage, so I believe it will still no void the warranty.
Thanks
If you install this on a newer car I believe you will need a MAF or MAP sensor (can get one on eBay for $50) it allows you to control the fuel / air mixture. On newer cars the air sensors will think the HHO is oxygen and will then notice an increase in oxygen and add gas. So sometimes in newer cars without the MAP senesor you will not get an increase in MPG, because of the cars computer.
It might void the warranty, because you have to drill in the intake. Get a 2nd intake and drill in that
I do not believe that it voids the warranty. I have done some work on new cars, and I have seen others get results on new cars aswell.