I have been asked to show the assembly of my cell, so here it is. Sorry if anything is unclear. I tried to show the basic steps without showing any machining, etc. The pipes are 304 SS, but 316 works well also. Part 3 will be uploaded after the cell is sealed and ready to run.
I have had the best results with this tube design. Although I am working on an experimental flat plate design.
hi uncle nemo, im about to build my hydro-generator and to save time i need some facts from your research.. which design is better:
1. your tubular design?
2. meyers 6 tube design?
3. the plate design?
Have you tried all 3 types?
God bless you!! lol dude you are awesome, I have to do this now, thanks so much for such a detailed video and such a good job putting it up for everyone. I’m going to Homedepo tomorrow!!! lol thanks again
About 1/8 inch. As the HDPE started to melt I leaned very hard on the end of the pipe, being sure to keep the pipe centered and square with the end cap. I did not make the tube so hot that it easily melted the HDPE. The plastic mushroomed out around the tube because there is nowhere for the material to go. But, the two were permanently attached afterward.
How far would you say you pressed the heated tube into the HDPE to get a good seal? Did the plastic not tend to shrink away from the hot metal?
Copper is coated in liquid electrical tape, purchased at Home Depot. You must let it dry for a few days before using the cell. Copper in contact with the electrolyte + current is not a good thing. Always isolate non stainless materials in your cell.
What brand of liquid tape you using?
Can you expand on your discussion about stainless vs copper? What is the danger of Copper over SS? What is the copper coated in, and how likely is it that the coating will come off?
this is why cold fusion hasnt been accepted yet, we are simply limited by our laws which is not right if we as species want to advance. If cold fusion was accepted, we would be researching it and acomplishing things.. after all many have acomplished stuff but since it goes against the laws, its not accepted so no one wins and we’re left with paying taxes for the hungry greedy pigs.
That is correct, it can not.
dont physics say output energy cannot exceed input energy?
I understand what people are telling you, because they tried to tell me the same things. However, it is false. Wattage = heat in direct relation…period….it is a fact of physics that no one may change, EVER! If you have 10 billion plates, or just 2, the wattage is what creates the reaction and the HH OO…. not volts, not amps, volts x amps. But, it will be better if you have separate cells running in series, than to run more plates. Please try it.
hey man i’m still doing research and want to get this right. The reason why they say 7 or 13 plates is because the voltage between plates needs to be maximum of 2.5 volts. More than that only creates heat. A car engine running charges the battery to about 14 volts which is great for 7 plates. (N=Neutral, +=+ and G=Ground) 7 plates… + N N N N N G and 13 plates G N N N N N + N N N N N G…
This unit has been installed for 7 months. No problems, works like a dream. Whoever told you about the plate numbers, etc does not have solid data. I am an electro-mechanical engineer with many years experience in building and experimenting with these cells. Believe what you may about HH OO (not HHO) production, whatever makes you happy.
Yes it is more efficient since copper is perfect however as i said once the coating falls off, you’re screwed and will be riding with a bomb. You need exactly 7 or 13 plates or depends how many times you want to continue… I’m still doing SAFE research on a good setup.
Sorry, you are wrong. Coated copper works like a dream, is more efficient and creates no heat. It’s a win win win situation. Spacing is perfect. Show me your cell getting 1LPM + at 22 amps COLD. Yes COLD.
very nice job however it will NOT be efficient at all. one of your mistakes is copper.. you need stainless unless you want to rebuild it again soon. Next spacing is too much.. 3rd.. you need a certain amount of plates.. i assume you will run it on a car battery? 4th those circle designs suck because you wont get much of flow as its all closed.
Using copper is absolutely, perfectly fine as long as it is isolated from the electrolyte…no matter what anyone tries to sell you, period. Copper is a much better conductor than SS. SS heats up and has way too much resistance. For the spacing, I have not seen even one video where anyone proves the voltage/amp/spacing theory with solid evidence, measuring the cell and gas output COLD. I have to see it to believe it….period.
you have a great design but let me make a couple of suggestions. spacing, its too big you need to have a tight tight spacing. basically as tight as you can get it. And the number of gaps is VERY important. Design your cell with the correct NUMBER of gaps and WIDTH of the gaps based on the voltage that you plan to run you cell on.research this, the answer is there. once you find this info and design your cell there will be a perfect ratio of V to Amp. research this too.don’t use copper at all.
3.5″ housing, 3″, 2.5″, 2″, 1.5″
What are the sizes of the tubes you are using?
You can get HDPE on EBay. People sell sheets of it. Make sure you get 3/4 inch thick sheets. You can drill large holes through the inner tubes and put liquid electrical tape and electrical shrink wrap on the part of the screw that goes through the holes.
I love this design!! how did you put you ground through with out shorting out the outer 3 tubes? Where can I get the HDPE end cap’s?
I used to use SS leads, but they get extremely hot becuase of resistance. So, for the sake of heat, I opted for copper. The liquid tape has held up, so far.
killer how to video’s. i love your cell and the design. 1.1lpm awesome
have you thought about using a strip of ss for your internal power lead? would be good to get all the copper out of it.